By 2005, Agriculture Canada estimates the organic market will be worth more than $3 billion in Canada alone, and will compose more than 10 per cent of the overall food market by 2010.

Food fads come and food fads go.

Ten years ago we were told to avoid all fat; now it seems that fat is all right. Carbohydrates even five years ago were considered healthy energy food; now theyre shunned by people on low-carb diets. Fifteen years ago, eggs were out; now theyre OK to eat.

But if theres one trend thats been building momentum for years and seems likely to continue, its the growing popularity among chefs and consumers for organic foodstuffs.

Unlike diets that are here today and gone tomorrow, the organic movement is no flash in the pan.

Produce such as heirloom tomatoes, pesticide-free potatoes, free-range chickens and organic eggs are finding a niche even in mainstream grocery stores, where more shelf space than ever is being earmarked for organics.

"People are getting more into organics as they become more concerned about the quality of the food they eat," says Marcel Mundel, executive chef at the Fairmont Chateau Laurier in downtown Ottawa.

"Some people are concerned about genetically modified food, others about mad-cow disease. Then there were reports of contaminants in farm-raised salmon, and more recently weve heard about millions of chickens in British Columbia being destroyed because of avian flu.

"Its no surprise that people are concerned," Mr. Mundel says.

Small wonder that major food producers like General Mills, Kraft, Kelloggs and Heinz, among others, have been snapping up smaller organic food producers to expand their lineup of niche-market-packaged products.

Citizen nutrition columnist and dietitian Rosie Schwartz, author of The Enlightened Eaters Whole Food Guide: Harvest the Power of Phyto Foods (Viking Canada), credits the growing interest in organics for having beneficial spillover effects among mainstream food producers.

"The whole organic movement has had an influence on conventional or non-organic food producers," she says.

"Even in non-organic foods, producers have generally been reducing their use of pesticides because of the attention the organic movement has brought to the use of chemicals in food production."

And, in many cases the organic products taste better, for example, the return of the original heirloom varieties of tomatoes -- the kind we used to grow before hybrids were created to make tomatoes look uniform and able to withstand long-distance travel to markets.

"Sure they may look good," Ms. Schwartz says, "but in many cases the hybrid tomatoes lost their taste."

Little surprise, then, that sales of organic foods have increased at a double-digit pace for several years.

In Ottawa, a small year-round organic farmers market is open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays at Parsifal Waldorf School at 1644 Bank St. (off Heron Road, behind the Canadian Tire store).

Other markets, such as the Parkdale Market, Byward Market and the Metcalfe and Carp Farmers Markets, also have organic producers selling their products.

In winter, about a dozen organic vendors at Parsifal market carry everything from organic baked goods to sprouts, meat and some vegetables. In summer, there are about 20 sellers offering a wider assortment of seasonal foods.

Industry keeps growing

By 2005, Agriculture Canada estimates the organic market will be worth more than $3 billion in Canada alone, and will compose more than 10 per cent of the overall food market by 2010.

South of the border, studies by the United States Department of Agriculture indicate 40 per cent of Americans regularly buy organic items, boosting annual revenues to more than $11 billion U.S.

Gone are the days when the word organic conjured images of bug-infested broccoli and apples with scabs. Todays organic food is appealing to the eye, naturally fragrant and packed with flavour.

What exactly is meant by the term "organic"?

According to the Organic Consumers Association, organic refers to the way agricultural products -- including foods and fibres such as cotton -- are grown and processed. The word "organic" on the label stands for a commitment to an agriculture that strives for a balance with nature, using methods and materials that have a low impact on the environment.

Organic production systems replenish and maintain soil fertility, eliminate the use of toxic and persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers, and build a biologically diverse agriculture. Organic foods are minimally processed to maintain the integrity of the food without artificial ingredients, preservatives or irradiation.

"Today there are big organic sections in supermarkets that just didnt exist even five years ago," Mr. Mundel says.

"And the prices for organic foods are coming down as production increases."

Some Challenges

Still, Mr. Mundel says a big challenge for major food buyers such as the Chateau Laurier is to obtain a steady, reliable supply of organic food in the quantity that a big hotel requires. Nothing less is good enough for a big operation like the Chateau, which plates some 1,000 to 2,500 meals a day.

"The first thing I ask an organic producer is, are you certified organic? Because if he isnt certified, then Im paying top dollar for produce that I cannot prove is organic."

Then there is a matter of price. While the cost of organic food has come down, most organic products still sell at a premium. Mr. Mundel says organic cream, for example, costs about three times more than regular cream. Organic Yukon gold potatoes cost four times more. "Generally, organics are still more expensive."

The executive chef estimates a meal created with organic ingredients will cost up to 35 per cent more by the time it lands on a hotel menu. Where a typical dinner at Wilfrids restaurant in the Chateau costs between $24 and $38, the organic counterpart may show up on the menu at anywhere from $30 to $50.

"Some people will pay extra for organic, while others will not," Mr. Mundel says. "So, the challenge is to get the price down.

"Certainly the quality is there, but we have to work on the reliability of supplies and the price."

To celebrate the growing popularity of organics, the Chateau will offer an organic table dhote menu beginning tomorrow until May 6 -- part of a chain-wide salute to organics at Fairmont hotels.

And, on April 22, the hotel, in conjunction with the Ottawa Symphony Orchestra and the Ottawa chapter of the Canadian Organic Growers, will celebrate Earth Day with a gala dinner featuring musical entertainment, organic foods, organic wines and a fundraising auction.

Special guests expected that evening are Gov. Gen. Adrienne Clarkson, who will bring along executive chef Oliver Bartsch and sous-chef Louis Charest from Rideau Hall, and Senator Laurier LaPierre, who will emcee the event.

"Were hoping for about 300 people to attend," says Tom Manley, chair of the 450-member Ottawa chapter of the Canadian Organic Growers. Mr. Manley runs an organic milling, feed and marketing operation in Berwick, east of Russell.

"We were impressed by a similar event last fall organized in Winnipeg by the organic growers and the Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra, which attracted about 220 people.

"So this is a great opportunity for people to become acquainted with the high quality and taste of organics. And its a great venue where community leaders like the Chateau and the symphony orchestra are showing how organics is desirable and mainstream.

"Organics is no longer a fringe movement," Mr. Manley says.

Healthy Recipes

We asked the Chateau to share a few recipes that will be featured at different times during the promotion at Wilfrids.

The Wild Mushroom Hunters Soup is actually a concoction thrown together in camp after a day of wild mushroom hunting along the Sonoma coast of California. Its simple and its flavour will vary depending on the type of mushrooms used.

Be certain to buy wild mushrooms from a reputable vendor, or you may substitute a mix of chanterelle, shiitake, crimini, portobello or oyster mushrooms from the store or farmers market. I found the soup has a wonderful meaty texture and is very satisfying -- almost a meal in itself.

The Grapefruit, Avocado and Fennel Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette is refreshing. And heres a neat trick to keep sliced avocado looking fresh without dousing it in lemon juice: Simply rinse the slices gently in cold tap water and theyll stay bright green for a couple of hours.

For the entree, Braised Rabbit with Mushrooms on Polenta is a rich peasant-style dish where the rabbit, mushrooms and sauce can be made a day or two ahead and reheated at serving time to top the polenta. If rabbit isnt your favourite dish, you can easily substitute two small chickens.

For a more elegant presentation, debone the meat and saute briefly along with the liver. Slice these attractively and arrange on top of ragu just before serving.

Finally, for a spectacular yet light dessert, I recommend the Ginger, Fig and Cranberry Semi-Freddo with Blackberry Sauce -- a simple but elegant finish that can be made in the terrine, as suggested, or in individual serving size moulds. "Semi-freddo" is, of course, Italian and translates to "half-frozen," which is what this dessert is -- somewhere between ice cream and a pudding.

If you are concerned about using raw egg yolks, you could whisk the yolks and sugar with 1/2 cup (125 mL) or so of dry white wine in a double boiler over simmering water until light, fluffy and cooked before folding in the whipped cream.

- - -

Organic Earth Day Evening

When: April 22

Time: Reception at 6:30 p.m; dinner 7:30 p.m.

Where: Fairmont Chateau Laurier Hotel, Ottawa

Sponsors: The Chateau

Laurier, the Ottawa Symphony Orchestra and the Ottawa chapter of Canadian Organic Growers

The event: To celebrate Earth Day with a gala dinner complete with musical entertainment, organic foods,

organic wines and a fundraising auction.

Celebrity guest

speakers: Jamie Kennedy, named chef of the year in 2000 by the Ontario Hostelry Institute; chef Michael Stadtlander, TV star of Stadtlander -- Adventures in Dining on the Food Network; and Elizabeth May, author, lawyer and executive director of Sierra Club of Canada. Mr. Kennedy and Mr. Stadtlander co-founded Forks and Knives, an organic farmers market headquartered in Toronto.

Tickets: $125; proceeds to support the symphony orchestra and the Ottawa chapter of organic growers.

For information and tickets: Call the orchestra at 747-3104 or check the websites at www.cog.ca/ottawa/o-n-c.htm or www.ottawasymphony.com.

- - -

Braised Rabbit with Mushrooms on Polenta with Gorgonzola Cheese

Serves 6 to 8

- 2 frying rabbits, cut into pieces (may substitute 2 fryer chickens, backs removed, each cut into breasts, thighs, wings, drumsticks)

- Flour, for dusting meat

- Salt and freshly ground pepper

- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) olive oil, divided

- 1 1/2 cups (325 mL) chopped onions

- 1 cup (250 mL) chopped carrot

- 1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped celery

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) chopped garlic

- 2 cups (500 mL) chopped fresh or canned diced tomatoes with juice

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) chopped fresh rosemary leaves

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) fresh thyme (or 2 teaspoons/10 mL dried)

- 1 teaspoon whole fennel seed

- 2 1/2 cups (625 mL) hearty red wine

- 6 cups (1.5 L) rich rabbit or chicken stock

For the mushrooms:

- 1/2 ounce (15 g) dried porcini mushrooms, rehydrated and coarsely chopped

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) minced shallots

- 4 cups (1 L) thickly sliced mushrooms such as chanterelle, oyster, shiitake, portobello

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) slivered sundried tomatoes

- 1/2 cup (125 mL) pitted, sliced, oil-cured or nicoise olives

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) grated lemon zest

- Polenta (recipe above)

- 4 ounces (115 g) Gorgonzola cheese (preferably Gorgonzola Dolce) cut into serving-size cubes

To garnish:

- Fresh or deep-fried basil sprigs

1. Dust the rabbit with flour and season liberally with salt and pepper. Add 2 tablespoons (25 mL) olive oil to an ovenproof pan and brown rabbit pieces on all sides. Remove rabbit and set aside.

2. Add onions, carrots, celery and garlic to pan and cook until just beginning to brown. Add tomatoes, herbs, fennel seed, wine and stock and bring to a boil. Add rabbit, cover and place in a preheated oven at 350 degreesF (180 degreesC) for 50 to 60 minutes or until rabbit is very tender and falling off the bone. Strain, reserving all braising juices.

3. Remove rabbit; discard bones and braising vegetables. Set rabbit meat aside. Place juices in a saucepan and reduce over high heat by at least one-third or until lightly thickened. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

4. While braising liquid is reducing, prepare mushrooms. Add porcini, shallots and remaining 2 tablespoons (25 mL) olive oil to a skillet and quickly saute until just beginning to colour. Add fresh mushrooms and saute until browned. Stir in sundried tomatoes, olives and lemon zest and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside and keep warm.

5. Spoon polenta into a large shallow bowl and make a well in the centre. Place a portion of Gorgonzola in centre and top with deboned rabbit and the mushroom mixture. Ladle reduced sauce over and garnish with the basil. Serve immediately.

Wild Mushroom Hunters Soup

Serves 6 to 8

- 4 tablespoons (65 mL) olive oil

- 2 1/2 cups (625 mL) thinly sliced onions

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) slivered garlic

- 1 1/2 pounds (680 g) fresh, cleaned wild mushrooms, sliced thick (Note: Use only mushrooms sold by reputable dealers, or substitute mixture of chanterelle, shiitake, crimini, portobello or oyster mushrooms.)

- 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) fresh or canned diced tomatoes with juice

- 6 cups (1.5 L) rich chicken or vegetable stock

- 1/3 cup (75 mL) ruby port, calvados or

amontillado sherry

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) finely grated lemon zest

- Salt and freshly ground pepper

To garnish:

- Freshly grated parmesan or Asiago cheese, chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, chives, basil and/or chervil

1. Heat 2 tablespoons (25 mL) of olive oil in a deep saucepan; cook onions and garlic over moderate heat until they are lightly golden. While onion mixture is cooking, saute mushrooms in remaining olive oil in a separate saute pan over high heat until they are cooked through and lightly browned.

2. Add mushrooms to onion mixture along with the tomatoes and stock. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to simmer 3 or 4 minutes.

3. Stir in port, lemon zest, and correct seasoning with salt and pepper to taste just before serving. Serve in warm bowls or mugs garnished with a good sprinkling of cheese and chopped fresh herbs.

Ginger, Fig and Cranberry Semi-Freddo with Blackberry Sauce

Makes one 8-cup (2-L) terrine serving 10 to 12

- 2 3/4 cups (675 mL) heavy 35-per-cent whipping cream

- 8 egg yolks

- 2/3 cup (175 mL) granulated sugar

- 1/4 cup (50 mL) candied ginger, minced

- 1/3 cup (75 mL) dried figs, finely chopped

- 1/3 cup (75 mL) dried cranberries, finely chopped

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) grated orange zest

- Blackberry Sauce (recipe at right)

- Fresh mint sprigs, to garnish

1. Beat cream until stiff and set aside. In a separate bowl, beat egg yolks until light in colour. Gradually beat sugar into yolks and continue beating for several minutes until light and fluffy. Gently fold the egg and cream mixture together with remaining ingredients except Blackberry Sauce and fresh mint.

2. Line an 8-cup (2-L) terrine with plastic wrap and fill with mixture. Cover top with plastic and freeze 6 hours or overnight.

3. To serve, unmould, cut into slices and surround with Blackberry Sauce and fresh mint sprigs.

Blackberry Sauce

- 5 cups (1.25 L) fresh or quick-frozen blackberries

- 3/4 cup (175 mL) granulated sugar (or to taste)

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) fresh lemon juice

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) blackberry brandy (optional)

Place all ingredients in blender or food processor and puree. Push through a fine strainer to remove all seeds. Store, covered and refrigerated, up to 5 days.

Grapefruit, Avocado and Fennel Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette

Serves 8

- 1 pound (450 g) fresh fennel bulb(s)

- 2 large pink grapefruit, peeled and sectioned (save any juices that drip out for vinaigrette)

- 2 large avocados, peeled, pit removed and sliced

- Citrus Vinaigrette (recipe below)

- Fresh daikon radish sprouts

- Tender arugula or watercress leaves (optional)

1. Trim the fennel, removing any stalks and any brown or bruised spots and the bottom. Rinse well in cold water. Slice vertically into paper-thin slices and arrange on chilled plates.

2. Arrange grapefruit segments and avocado slices attractively on top and drizzle 2 or 3 tablespoons (25 to 50 mL) of vinaigrette over and around. Garnish with a tuft of daikon sprouts and arugula, if using. Serve immediately.

Citrus Vinaigrette

Makes about 1 cup

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) each, grated lemon and orange zest

- 1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced shallot or green onion

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) peeled and minced fresh ginger

- Juice of one large lemon (1/4 cup/50 mL)

- Juice of one large orange (1/3 cup/75 mL)

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground dry mustard

- 2 tablespoons (25 mL) honey

- 1 teaspoon (5 mL) toasted sesame oil

- 3 tablespoons (50 mL) olive oil

- Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Place all ingredients except oils and salt and pepper in a blender; blend at high speed for 10 seconds. Add oils and pulse 2 or 3 times to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.